Strengthen and maintain the skin barrier

Function of the skin barrier

The importance of a healthy skin barrier is constantly emphasized. It's high time, therefore, that we take a detailed look at what the skin barrier actually is and how to keep it intact.

The skin barrier is a protective layer that—simply put—keeps pollutants out of the skin and water inside. In this way, it protects the skin from the penetration of bacteria, germs, and other irritants, while simultaneously retaining moisture within the skin. Essentially, it contributes to skin health in two ways: hydration is just as crucial as defending against foreign substances. Well-hydrated skin is not only more elastic and ages more slowly, but it is also significantly more resilient. This explains why a weak skin barrier is the root cause of many skin problems, as it disrupts the balance of several crucial factors.

Structure and composition of the skin barrier

To understand the skin barrier and its structure, we need to take a very detailed look at the outermost layer of skin, the epidermis. Its outermost layer is the stratum corneum. Dead skin cells (corneocytes) accumulate there. Looking back from the stratum corneum, the outermost layer is the skin barrier. Skin-specific lipids are deposited between the corneocytes there, acting like cement between building blocks. A thin layer of sebum then lies on top of this. The composition of the sebum lipids differs slightly from the epidermal lipids beneath it.

We already know the three epidermal lipids—ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol—from our last article. They seal the skin and retain its moisture reserves. Now let's take a closer look at sebum lipids. Sebum lipids are slightly acidic (keyword: acid mantle). They are responsible for protecting the skin from external elements. They ward off viruses, bacteria, and other microscopic foreign bodies. Sebum, by the way, synergizes perfectly with the underlying epidermal lipids and the rest of the skin's structure, as it promotes increased glycerol production in the skin. Glycerin is an excellent natural humectant. Specifically, sebum lipids are also composed of cholesterol and fatty acids, among other things. They do not contain ceramides, but instead triglycerides, wax esters, and squalene. Fatty acids are found in various natural oils, which is why these oils are ideal for skincare. We briefly described some of these oils in our last article on lipids. Squalene and cholesterol are also already well-known. Triglycerides consist of glycerol and a fatty acid. Wax esters, on the other hand, are a combination of fatty acid and fatty alcohol. They are found, for example, in jojoba oil and shea butter – two active ingredients we raved about in the previous article. If you haven't yet read our post on skin lipids and are now curious, simply follow this link .

The precise composition of lipids in sebum varies considerably from person to person. It's practically as individual as a fingerprint or a personality. Epidermal lipids, on the other hand, are quite different; their percentage composition is very precisely defined and shouldn't deviate from these percentages, as doing so would disrupt the skin's balance. This illustrates just how diverse the delicate layers of our skin can be.

Skin reactions due to a weakened barrier function

A damaged skin barrier cannot retain moisture. As long as the skin is not adequately supplied with both moisture and sealing lipids, too much water constantly diffuses outwards. This initially leads to dehydration. However, this is only the first visible step, which can trigger a chain reaction of other symptoms. As a result of the dryness, the skin becomes flaky. It cracks more easily, and the wound healing process to repair these cracks may take longer than usual. Because it is less able to defend against external pollutants, the skin becomes sensitive and may develop more blemishes and inflammation. Burning and itching can also occur. Depending on individual predisposition, the skin may also react to these symptoms with redness, which can make the complexion appear blotchy. People who are less prone to redness often develop a sallow complexion, making them look pale and sickly. The lack of moisture in the skin also makes it more prone to wrinkling. A damaged barrier therefore leads to more signs of skin aging. In contrast, an intact skin barrier is characterized by a supple skin feel and a fresh complexion.

Steps to repair the skin barrier

Now that we understand the symptoms, the question naturally arises: how can we restore our skin barrier? Two key components of the skin are crucial: moisture and lipids. Only a balance of both can restore the balance of the skin barrier. First, the lost moisture must be replenished. Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs) are ideal for this, and we've already discussed them in our article on moisturizing skincare . Hyaluronic acid is particularly well-suited because a serum containing hyaluronic acids in various chain lengths allows the active ingredient to work both within the skin and on its surface. The second important step involves using lipids that can accumulate between the corneocytes and seal the skin barrier, thus retaining moisture. The body's own lipids are best for this purpose. A particularly prominent example of such a lipid is ceramides , which occur in nine different variations in the skin. As we reported in our article about the skin's own lipids , it is important to maintain a balance between ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. Normally, however, day and night creams are already formulated to contain a healthy mix of these three lipids.

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Aside from these two essential steps, we recommend cleansing your face with a mild cleanser. An aggressive facial cleanser would unnecessarily irritate the skin and, in the worst case, exacerbate the symptoms. As always, in addition to skincare products, everyday tips are also helpful. A balanced diet is always good for the skin. In contrast, stress and pollutants are always bad for the skin and should be avoided whenever possible. Unfortunately, avoiding stress is much easier said than done. A balanced hydration level, beyond just skincare, is also important. We hydrate our skin not only through skincare but also internally through our daily intake of drinking water. Drinking enough water is not only healthy, it also leads to radiant skin. That's yet another reason to reach for a glass of water more often. It's also beneficial to consume plenty of vitamins, not only through skincare but also through your diet, to generally strengthen the immune system and thus the skin barrier.

Finally, repairing a damaged skin barrier requires patience, as this unfortunately doesn't happen overnight. It can easily take several weeks for a balance to be restored.

Keep the barrier intact

Once the skin barrier is repaired, we naturally want to maintain it in that condition. Lipids continue to play a key role in this. The skin's own lipids are always lost to a certain percentage due to external influences, so it's important to replenish them regularly with suitable creams to maintain the skin barrier function. Beyond that, there are a few very simple tips on what you can do and what you should avoid to keep the skin barrier functioning properly.

Do:

Use gentle cleansers with mild surfactants for cleansing. This protects the skin barrier.

Use lukewarm water when washing your face.

Chemical peels for exfoliation Prefer these. They are particularly gentle on the skin.

Use sunscreen regularly. The higher the UV index, the more important protection from radiation is.

Apply protective and regenerating creams. This is crucial, especially in extreme temperatures – whether cold or hot.

Use pH-neutral skincare products, as these best support the skin's natural balance.

A balanced diet and a healthy lifestyle help general well-being as well as the skin barrier.

Don't:

Do not use harsh products or soap for cleansing. These will only further damage the skin barrier. Soap is also often not suitable for the skin. The pH value is adjusted to the necessary level for facial skin.

Extremely hot or extremely cold water throws the skin off balance. Therefore, extreme temperatures should be avoided when washing your face. The tap needs to be adjusted.

Among exfoliants, scrubs are more damaging to the skin barrier than chemical peels.

Use exfoliants only moderately often per week – depending on what your skin tolerates well. Exfoliating too frequently disrupts the skin's balance and weakens its barrier function.

Using too many active ingredients at the same time can also damage the skin. Therefore, it's better to focus on the most essential ingredients.

Irritating substances in skincare products should be avoided. These include, for example, artificial fragrances and certain alcohols. You can read about which ingredients to avoid and which are safe in this article .