PEGs – justifiably controversial?

What are PEGs?

The abbreviation PEGs stands for polyethylene glycols. These are synthetic polymers (very complex molecules composed of several components). They have many applications, including in medicine and pharmaceuticals. They are also found in many cosmetic products. PEGs are often used as emulsifiers, humectants, and solvents to improve the consistency of products. As emulsifiers, for example, they prevent phase separation in products made from different, immiscible liquids. As surfactants, they ensure cleanliness and the typical foaming effect, as seen in cleaning products and shampoos.

PEGS and their impact on the environment

The use of PEGs has a direct impact on the environment, especially when used in large quantities and in non-biodegradable form. PEGs are derived from petroleum, meaning they are already environmentally damaging during the extraction of the necessary raw materials. The mere mention of petroleum doesn't exactly sound like something one would want to consume regularly or have on their skin. But this leads us to the next problem PEGs pose for the environment: through the use of personal care products, soaps, shampoos, and cleaners, these polymers enter our water cycle. There, they often degrade very slowly, thus polluting waterways in the long term and accumulating in aquatic life. Similar to microplastics, PEGs then easily enter the human food chain through the consumption of fish, seafood, and so on. Anyone who hasn't been bothered by the idea of ​​using petroleum-based polymers on their skin will probably find this cycle quite unappetizing by now. All in all, this doesn't exactly scream environmental responsibility or sustainability.

PEGs and human health

But even setting aside their environmentally damaging effects, PEGs have a bad reputation. If these polymers don't contribute to the health of the planet, what about the health of people who consume PEGs? As is so often the case, there are worrying assumptions, but hardly any studies that could definitively prove or disprove them.

PEGs are suspected of being carcinogenic and mutagenic. While these are currently unconfirmed suspicions, they certainly don't make one feel any more comfortable using these substances. For us in skincare, the property of PEGs to make the skin barrier more permeable is particularly interesting. This aspect can be viewed both positively and negatively. On the positive side, a more flexible skin barrier allows all the beneficial active ingredients we want to apply to our skin to penetrate more effectively. That doesn't sound bad at all. Unfortunately, the downside is that this also makes it easier for harmful substances to penetrate. It's not for nothing that people often say PEGs open the floodgates. This metaphor is quite apt. Once the door is open, there's no guarantee what will pass through. Interestingly, it's usually not the PEGs themselves that directly cause irritation, redness, and itching of the skin, but rather other irritants that the PEGs provide with a convenient entry point. Finally, we can state one thing with certainty: PEGs can dry out the skin.

Conclusion

PEGs aren't inherently bad. In certain applications, they can certainly have advantages, especially as surfactants. Imagine a cleaning product that neither foams nor cleans. In that case, PEGs make perfect sense in the formulation. It's simply not possible to do without them entirely. It's also worth noting that not all PEGs pose the same risks, and some forms can be safer than others. Equally illuminating, however, is the fact that there are more environmentally friendly alternatives for many uses of PEGs. Numerous natural substances can also function as emulsifiers.

In summary, PEGs do fulfill some important functions. However, it's important to avoid using them in large quantities. As is so often the case, this unfortunately requires consumers to critically examine ingredient lists and do their own research. As a skincare brand, we at colibri skincare believe that PEGs definitely don't belong in cosmetics or creams, which is why all our products are PEG-free.