Healthy skin thanks to hyaluronic acid

What is hyaluronic acid?

Although hyaluronic acid is an acid, chemically speaking it also belongs to the polysaccharides. The substance consists of a basic building block that – similar to a string of pearls – is linked together with varying numbers of times, resulting in chains of hyaluronic acid of different lengths.

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the body. It is a component of human connective tissue – not only in facial skin, but also throughout the rest of the body. Furthermore, it not only keeps our skin supple, but also ensures the functionality of our joints. Hyaluronic acid is also crucial for the composition of the vitreous humor of the eye. In the skin itself, hyaluronic acid is present in the upper two layers, the epidermis and the dermis. In the dermis, it is deposited between the collagen and elastin fibers and thus contributes significantly to the skin's structure. You can read more about collagen and elastin in our post “ Collagen & Elastin: The Flexible Foundation of the Skin ”.

Extraction of hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid used to be derived from animal sources. However, this practice is now outdated. Like many other active ingredients, hyaluronic acid is now produced synthetically. This makes it ideally suited for vegan skincare. A major advantage of synthetic hyaluronic acid is that it can be optimally adapted to the human body during the manufacturing process, allowing for particularly good absorption and metabolization. As with most naturally occurring substances found in skincare products, it's important to emphasize that these substances are not 100% identical to those found in the skin. Therefore, we refer to them as skin-like, not skin-identical. As mentioned, these synthetically produced active ingredients are optimized for effective penetration into the skin. There, they fulfill the functions of the skin's own substances, which diminish with age. However, all these skin-like substances introduced into the body can only provide a boost. They cannot restore the skin's youthful initial condition. You can visualize it similarly to drilling a hole in a wall. The hole can be filled with filler, and this will serve its purpose. However, the original, drilled-out brickwork cannot be restored. This doesn't affect the building's structural integrity, but it's no longer in its original state. The same applies to the skin's own substances. These naturally break down over time and cannot be restored in their original form. But boosters can be used as a substitute, and the active ingredients in them will fulfill their purpose within the skin.

Degradation of the body's own hyaluronic acid

As mentioned in the previous section, the depletion of hyaluronic acid reserves in the skin is a natural process. With increasing age, the amount of hyaluronic acid in the skin decreases, and less of it is produced. This process of hyaluronic acid depletion begins around age 25. Of course, this can vary from person to person. The decrease in hyaluronic acid concentration in the skin results in a loss of firmness and elasticity, which in turn leads to wrinkles. To maintain healthy skin, the lost hyaluronic acid should be replenished through skincare. It's definitely worthwhile to start using a hyaluronic acid booster as early as your mid-twenties. Even if no visible wrinkles are yet present, you can use a booster to delay their first appearance. It's important to remember that even ingested hyaluronic acid is eventually broken down by the body. Just like peptides, hyaluronic acid should be used continuously to benefit from its advantages.

Another factor that contributes to the breakdown of hyaluronic acid in the skin is free radicals. Unfortunately, hyaluronic acid is susceptible to damage from UV radiation, so sunscreen also helps to keep skin looking younger and more elastic for longer.

How does hyaluronic acid work?

Hyaluronic acid is known for its high water-binding capacity and its contribution to slow-aging.

Let's first take a closer look at the moisturizing effect of hyaluronic acid. One gram of hyaluronic acid can bind up to six liters of water. Because of this high binding capacity, it's easy to see why high concentrations of hyaluronic acid aren't necessary in skincare. Even a dedicated hyaluronic acid serum will usually only contain a low percentage, which is perfectly sufficient for the serum's purpose. The remaining portion of such a serum consists of other beneficial active ingredients that synergize well with the moisturizing effect of the hyaluronic acid. Moisturizing the skin is a perennial priority in skincare, and therefore hyaluronic acid is a frequently used ingredient in formulations.

Studies have proven not only the positive effects of hyaluronic acid on skin hydration, but also its impact on skin elasticity and wrinkle depth. These studies have demonstrated a reduction in wrinkle depth through the application of hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid can therefore smooth the skin and is also well-suited for preventing the formation of wrinkles. Furthermore, hyaluronic acid not only plumps up wrinkles, but also works deep into the dermis, where it stabilizes the collagen structure by depositing itself between the collagen and elastin fibers. It can also contribute to collagen production, thus having a rejuvenating effect on the skin. Overall, the skin appears plumper and more youthful.

Aside from moisturizing and plumping wrinkles, hyaluronic acid also makes the skin more resistant to external influences and can inhibit inflammation. The opposite effect occurs when hyaluronic acid is attacked by free radicals; if the hyaluronic acid loses its functionality due to the action of these radicals, it promotes inflammatory processes in the skin.

In summary, hyaluronic acid is simply essential for skin health in all its various ways. Therefore, it's best to incorporate hyaluronic acid into at least one of your daily routines. You can expect a slight immediate effect when using hyaluronic acid, and long-term improvements after a few weeks. Why is this? We'll explain in the next section.

Long-chain and short-chain hyaluronic acid compared

Hyaluronic acids used in skincare can be divided into two categories: long-chain (high molecular weight) and short-chain (low molecular weight) acids.

Long-chain hyaluronic acid, due to its molecular size, cannot penetrate the skin. It forms a light film on the skin's surface, which has a moisturizing effect. This film also has a protective function, as long-chain hyaluronic acid is anti-inflammatory. The skin's surface also becomes smoother, and its elasticity is temporarily increased. These cosmetic effects are very quickly noticeable. It is an immediate effect, but it only lasts until the next facial cleansing. Long-chain hyaluronic acid can only provide a short-term change in the skin's appearance. Therefore, it is particularly suitable for fine lines, mild dehydration, and when a fresher complexion is desired.

Short-chain hyaluronic acid, however, can penetrate deep into the dermis. It accumulates between collagen and elastin, storing water in the connective tissue and thus creating well-filled moisture reserves in the skin. Due to this depot effect, short-chain hyaluronic acid also has longer-lasting effects. It plumps up wrinkles from within, leading to the popular slow-aging effect. It develops its full effect after two to eight weeks. Short-chain hyaluronic acid is particularly well-suited for more pronounced wrinkles and severe dehydration.

As a rule of thumb, we can remember: long chains lead to short-term effects, short chains lead to long-term effects.

To illustrate the difference in penetration depth between hyaluronic acid chains of varying lengths with another image: Imagine the skin as a sieve. In this analogy, long-chain hyaluronic acid would be large, rather coarse grains of sand, while short-chain hyaluronic acid would be fine sand. And just like in a sieve, the larger particles get caught, while the smaller ones fall through.

At this point, some of you might be wondering whether you have to choose between short-chain or long-chain hyaluronic acid when selecting your skincare. As always, the short answer is: no, you don't. And now for the full explanation: we already know from other active ingredients that they work particularly well in combination. The same is true for hyaluronic acid, and its long- and short-chain forms complement each other perfectly. For optimal results, a hyaluronic acid serum usually combines both forms. While the hyaluronic acid naturally present in the skin is long-chain and provides an important immediate benefit, it's worthwhile adding short-chain hyaluronic acid to such a serum. This is because it can penetrate the skin, bind to it, and support the natural hyaluronic acid by providing a long-term effect. Such a combination of both forms thus offers a solid all-around effect, including long-term replenishment of moisture reserves and a plumping effect, as well as a pleasant immediate effect as a bonus.

Different forms of hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is found in skincare products in various forms. The following INCI names may appear when searching for hyaluronic acid, and here's what they contain:

1. Hyaluronic Acid: This is hyaluronic acid in its purest form. It has a high molecular weight and therefore moisturizes the skin's surface.
2. Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid: Through the hydrolysis process, the hyaluronic acid is essentially reduced in size. This gives it a lower molecular weight, which allows it to penetrate into the connective tissue.
3. Sodium Hyaluronate: This is the salt of hyaluronic acid. It is very stable and therefore particularly well-suited for use in skincare products. As a low-molecular-weight form of hyaluronic acid, it can penetrate deep into the skin. There, it stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid and plumps up wrinkles.
4. Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer: This active ingredient is created by cross-linking several hyaluronic acid salts together. This increases the overall molecular weight. Ultimately, the substance combines two crucial advantages: It is as stable as the uncross-linked salts and as moisturizing as larger hyaluronic acid molecules.
5. Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate: During acetylation, part of the hyaluronic acid is replaced by an acetyl group. Specifically, this means that the hyaluronic acid becomes a hybrid, exhibiting both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties. This form of hyaluronic acid is particularly well absorbed by the skin and can effectively smooth wrinkles.

 

Who is hyaluronic acid suitable for?

Fortunately, the answer to this question is quite simple: All of them. For those who prefer a more detailed explanation than just a single word, further information on why this is the case can be found below.

Skin type and condition: We particularly recommend hyaluronic acid for dry or dehydrated skin to replenish its moisture reserves. Generally, however, every skin type and condition can benefit from moisture, as adequate hydration is a key factor in the skin's overall health. Oily skin can also suffer from dehydration, and a hyaluronic acid serum is especially well-suited for this, as it doesn't leave an oily residue. The active ingredient thus provides a comfortable feel for all skin types. Furthermore, hyaluronic acid, being a naturally occurring substance in the skin, is extremely well-tolerated. There are no known intolerances or side effects, so even sensitive skin can use hyaluronic acid without hesitation.

Age: As mentioned in the third section of this article, hyaluronic acid is particularly beneficial from the age of 25, when the body's own hyaluronic acid production gradually decreases. However, if desired or needed, there's nothing wrong with using hyaluronic acid at an even younger age, as the skin can always experience a moisture deficiency. And there's no upper age limit either, as hyaluronic acid remains a fantastic active ingredient well into old age.

Different hormonal phases: Even during hormonal fluctuations, hyaluronic acid remains equally well-tolerated by the body. Whether pregnancy, breastfeeding, menopause, or other phases – hyaluronic acid is always suitable and always helpful.

And one more good to know: The application of hyaluronic acid is beneficial wherever wrinkles tend to form. This applies particularly to the eye area, the corners of the mouth, the forehead, the neck, and the décolleté.

Which other active ingredients harmonize with hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid harmonizes well with many active ingredients. Below is a short list of these active ingredients and why they work so well with hyaluronic acid.

Vitamin A: Hardly any other active ingredient is as well-known for slow-aging as retinol . Retinol and hyaluronic acid work even better in combination.

Vitamin C : This vitamin is also beneficial for slow aging and is therefore a good partner for hyaluronic acid. Furthermore, vitamin C can stimulate collagen synthesis, and hyaluronic acid, in turn, synergizes with collagen, as the two substances together significantly shape the structure of the skin.

Niacinamide : Another vitamin that works well with hyaluronic acid. Together they ensure better skin hydration.

Aloe Vera: This active ingredient is an excellent source of moisture, thus complementing the effect of hyaluronic acid.

Glycerin: It's always beneficial to enhance the effects of hyaluronic acid with other moisturizers. Glycerin is a popular choice for this combination in skincare.

Lipids: Finally, to keep all that moisture in the skin, lipids are needed for optimal barrier function.

Products containing hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is one of the most popular ingredients in skincare. It's included in many products because it's both effective and well-tolerated. There's no such thing as "too much" hyaluronic acid. This means that if you use a hyaluronic acid serum you really like, you can certainly follow it with a day or night cream that also contains hyaluronic acid. Especially with coordinated skincare lines from the same manufacturer, it's practically guaranteed that the products will complement each other. Because hyaluronic acid is such an excellent moisturizer, it's primarily added to skincare products as an additional source of hydration.

In our product range you can find hyaluronic acid in the following products:

Booster:

• Antioxidant Serum : Here, hyaluronic acid supports a range of valuable antioxidants.
• Barrier Booster : Hyaluronic acid is excellent as a moisture source for strengthening a healthy skin barrier.
• Hyaluron Booster : Here, hyaluronic acid is naturally the main active ingredient and is included as both long-chain and short-chain hyaluronic acid.
• Niacinamide Booster, Vitamin A Serum and Vitamin C 15 Booster: As already noted in the previous section, hyaluronic acid harmonizes well with vitamins A, C and B3.

Moisturizer:

Hyaluronic acid is included in the Calming Moisturizer, Rich Night Moisturizer, Night Cream and Daily SPF 50+ Moisturizer to support their moisturizing effect.

Masks:

All our current masks (BHA Mask, Calming Mask, Retexturizing Mask and Rich Hydration Mask) also contain hyaluronic acid.

Treatments:

• Aloe Vera Spray and Exfoliate Booster: Both aloe vera and alpha hydroxy acids have a moisturizing effect and therefore go well with hyaluronic acid.
• Eyelash Booster and Refining Eye Cream : Hyaluronic acid is particularly suitable for the eye area due to its gentle effect.
• Spot and Discoloration Treatment : Hyaluronic acid also provides support here through its moisturizing effect.