Collagen & elastin: The flexible foundation of the skin

What are collagen and elastin?

In our last article, we discussed peptides and noted that collagen and elastin can be formed from them in the skin. So it's high time to clarify exactly what collagen and elastin do for our skin.

Both are structural proteins. These give shape to the body's cells and tissues, forming a kind of framework. Their ability to provide shape and firmness applies not only to the skin but also to large parts of the rest of the body. Collagen is found not only in the layers of the skin but also in tendons, ligaments, cartilage, and bones. It is the most abundant protein in the human body. Elastin is also present not only in the skin but also in cartilage, tendons, and connective tissue.

There are many different types of collagen – 28 to date, according to current knowledge. Listing them all here, along with their functions, would be rather pointless. Essentially, all these collagen types, like elastin, are protein chains made up of amino acids. You can read more about these chains and how they are distinguished by length in our article on peptides .

In skincare, we are naturally most interested in the function of collagen and elastin in the skin. Maintaining these two proteins in the skin is one of the central focuses of slow-aging skincare.

What is the difference between collagen and elastin?

Collagen and elastin are often mentioned in the same breath. However, just because they are both structural proteins that work synergistically doesn't mean they are the same. Collagen is primarily responsible for the skin's firmness, while elastin provides its flexibility. Elastin is the component of the skin that ensures it returns to its original shape after all kinds of movements and stretching. Collagen provides the supporting framework, while elastin gives it the elasticity. Or, in other words: collagen gives shape, elastin maintains shape.

The structural framework of the skin

While collagen forms a structural framework in the skin, it is by no means the only structural element. However, with a share of over 80% in skin and connective tissue, it is definitely the most prominent. Other cornerstones of skin structure besides collagen are ceramides and NMFs (Natural Moisturizing Factors) such as hyaluronic acid. We plan to dedicate separate articles to each of these skin components in the future. For now, it's worth mentioning that collagen and hyaluronic acid are often mentioned together as natural substances in the skin, but they largely fulfill different functions. While both are excellent at binding water, hyaluronic acid's ability in this regard is unmatched. While hyaluronic acid primarily provides cushioning and volume, collagen—as mentioned—provides the structure, essentially the framework.

In the skin, collagen fibers form a network, between which the somewhat smaller elastin fibers are embedded. Elastin thus supports the function of collagen, and together they keep the skin elastic – through their different modes of action, as explained in the previous section. If the collagen network in the skin is stable and largely intact, wrinkles are less likely to form.

Elastin and collagen degradation

The collagen and elastin structure of the skin is unfortunately threatened by many factors. One of these is age. On average, skin aging begins as early as the mid-twenties, and collagen production declines continuously. This process starts even earlier for elastin, around the end of puberty. The loss of both elastin and collagen leads to skin aging and, consequently, to fine lines and eventually wrinkles.

Other factors that can affect collagen production include UV radiation, extreme temperature fluctuations, diet, substance use, medication, and stress. Hormonal changes such as pregnancy or menopause can also influence collagen breakdown. Elastin is threatened by similar factors as collagen. Here, too, UV radiation, free radicals, and substances like tobacco and alcohol play a role.

Prevention of degradation

How can this breakdown of the structural proteins be prevented or slowed down? Since free radicals are particularly damaging to the collagen network, it's always worthwhile to use antioxidants like vitamins as free radical scavengers to protect the skin. Sunscreen is, of course, always recommended. Beyond that, as is so often the case, a healthy diet and lifestyle are half the battle. Because both collagen and elastin are formed from amino acids, a regular intake of amino acids is very helpful. Unsaturated fatty acids also help maintain elastin. Adequate hydration of both the skin and the rest of the body also has a positive effect. The collagen network also benefits from following basic skincare tips, such as choosing skincare products suited to your skin type and always removing makeup thoroughly.

 

Skincare with collagen and elastin

To directly supply the skin with collagen and elastin, it seems logical to use preparations containing these substances. However, one must first consider the feasibility of this, and secondly, the process of obtaining collagen and elastin is worth mentioning.

Let's start with feasibility. Collagen fibers are very long, so collagen as an active ingredient in creams cannot penetrate the skin. The collagen contained in creams cannot eliminate wrinkles; at best, it can only accumulate superficially on the skin. Applied collagen does not reach the structures in the deeper layers of the skin that are responsible for wrinkle formation. Thus, skincare with collagen would only work on the skin's surface. Unfortunately, this is the case with all active ingredients that form large molecules. At best, the effect is a short-term, visible improvement, but no long-term structural effects are achieved.

Now let's turn to the production of these two structural proteins. These days, it's increasingly important that skincare products are compatible with a vegan lifestyle. Unfortunately, both collagen and elastin are unsuitable as active ingredients in this regard. Both substances are of animal origin and cannot be produced by plants. Vegan collagen or elastin simply doesn't exist. Even with an omnivorous diet, one couldn't meet their elastin requirements solely through food. Supplements or skincare products containing elastin would be necessary.

Applying collagen doesn't provide a long-term solution and would also conflict with animal welfare. So what's the solution? Fortunately, there are plenty of vegan-derived active ingredients that stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin in the skin. These ingredients can be applied directly via skincare products or ingested through food. This is both animal-friendly and leads to long-term effects – a win-win!

 

Help the skin produce more collagen and elastin

The best active ingredients for a stable collagen and elastin structure are peptides, retinol , and vitamin C. Amino acids are also helpful, as they are the smallest building blocks of structural proteins. Peptides are beneficial for the same reason, since they are already composed of amino acid chains. Vitamin A (retinol) and vitamin C both promote the formation of collagen and elastin while simultaneously slowing their breakdown in the skin.

Our top products for maintaining collagen and elastin in the skin are:

• Vitamin A serum or 1% retinol booster (the former for beginners, the latter for experts),
• Vitamin C 15 or C 20 booster (depending on skin type; Vitamin C 20 booster for dry skin, Vitamin C 15 booster for all other skin types)
• and polypeptide boosters .