Peptides – The superheroes of slow aging

What are peptides?

To answer this question, we need to delve a little deeper into chemistry. We'll only look at a very small part of it, though: amino acids. These form chains. A chain of at least two amino acids is a peptide. Peptides are smaller forms of proteins, from which larger proteins are then formed. Chemically speaking, amino acids are the smallest building blocks from which peptides are created. In the skin, important structure-giving proteins like collagen and elastin are formed from these peptides. In simpler terms, peptides are short chains of amino acids, while proteins are long chains of amino acids or consist of peptide building blocks. To put this into perspective, it's worth mentioning that among proteins, a chain of one hundred amino acids is still considered short and therefore a peptide. A longer chain would then be a protein or macropeptide. Peptides can be further distinguished based on their chain length. The simplest distinction here is between oligopeptides and polypeptides. An oligopeptide has a chain length of two to ten, a polypeptide one of over ten to one hundred. Of course, peptides can also be differentiated at much smaller scales. Most often the chains are linear, but they can also be arranged in a ring.

Since peptides are an entire class of substances, there are a huge number of different peptides. They exist in a wide variety of forms, with varying chain lengths and diverse effects; the field of peptides is therefore truly broad and extends far beyond skincare.

 

What functions do peptides perform in the body?

Peptides serve a wide variety of purposes in the body. They are important for metabolism, play a role in wound healing, and can bind water. Furthermore, they act as signaling molecules, transmitting messages within the body via nerve impulses to initiate various bodily processes. Some peptides are essential for the structure of body parts, giving bones, organs, and skin their structure and firmness. They are particularly vital to the skin, as without them, the skin would have a very different, sagging appearance.

 

How do peptides work in the skin?

In the first section, we already established that there are an incredible number of peptide types. Their range of capabilities is equally vast, and in skincare, it's safe to say that peptides are true all-rounders. They are best known for stimulating the production of important skin-derived substances. This brings us back to a point from the previous section: the ability of proteins to communicate specific signals within the body. Peptides can signal to the skin that more collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid should be produced. It's advantageous that peptides are building blocks from which larger proteins like collagen and elastin are formed, and are therefore smaller. Unlike collagen and elastin, peptides can penetrate the skin and work from within. Of course, collagen and elastin can also be applied directly to the skin, but as with all large molecules that cannot penetrate the skin, this only yields short-term results that quickly fade. Peptides, on the other hand, can provide a long-term effect.

Aside from this effect, peptides have numerous other benefits. They regenerate, soothe, and moisturize the skin, promote repair after injuries, and reduce blemishes. Peptides can even be antioxidants, thus combating free radicals. Furthermore, they influence skin pigmentation by regulating the synthesis of the skin-coloring pigment melanin, and can therefore reduce hyperpigmentation and sun damage. In addition, peptides promote skin health by strengthening its defenses, making it more difficult for viruses and bacteria to take hold. Anti-inflammatory peptides are also available. They contribute to healthy skin by supplying it with essential nutrients. Peptides also boost cell renewal and can make the skin softer and smoother.

Slow-aging through peptides

After all these wonderful effects, we want to shine a special spotlight on slow-aging, because peptides are simply unbeatable in this area. We already mentioned in the previous section that they stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. Since these are the proteins that give the skin its shape and firmness, the application of peptides makes the skin structure firmer again, increases elasticity, and smooths fine lines and wrinkles, as peptides have been proven to reduce wrinkle depth. Furthermore, peptides can slow down the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the skin, thus contributing to the maintenance of the collagen and elastin structure in two ways. But there is a third way peptides work in relation to slow-aging. Our facial muscles move when we express ourselves. While the skin always returns to its "original" shape after each facial expression, small wrinkles do form over time – essentially signs of wear and tear from expressive facial movements. Peptides can slightly restrict these muscle contractions during facial expressions, thus reducing the likelihood of wrinkles forming. This effect is often compared to Botox. While something similar does occur, the two are definitely not comparable. The effect of peptides in this way is much more subtle and less invasive. The muscle is not paralyzed or severely restricted in its movement, but only very minimally limited. Despite this gentle effect, the result is still visible. Overall, peptides make the skin look younger and fresher.

 

What are the advantages of peptides?

Let's now turn to the question of why one should use peptides when there are already so many other great slow-aging ingredients and products on the market. Let's start with a point we'll revisit later: active ingredients work best together. Peptides can be a valuable addition to any slow-aging routine. This is especially true because they are exceptionally well-tolerated and suitable for all skin types, even those with particularly sensitive skin. Unlike most other active ingredients, peptides are truly suitable for everyone. Their universal applicability and high tolerability make them a viable alternative to other slow-aging ingredients. For people who, for example, don't tolerate retinol well or avoid it for other reasons, peptides are the solution. As we saw in the previous sections, the effects of peptides are not limited to stimulating collagen synthesis. Therefore, peptides are also an alternative to less well-tolerated active ingredients for other skincare goals besides slow-aging. Another advantage of peptides is that their effectiveness is well-documented in studies. As an added bonus, peptides are not only useful as the main active ingredient in a peptide booster. They are also enjoying great popularity in hair care. They are also very well-suited for the care of the eye area due to their smoothing and moisturizing effects. Some peptides also have a decongestant effect, which can be a great benefit, especially for tired eyes. Because of all these wonderful effects on the eye area, peptides are also included in our Refining Eye Cream.

 

How can peptides be obtained or absorbed?

Peptides, or rather their building blocks, amino acids, are found in many animal and plant sources. They are most often derived from grains or cattle, but can also be produced synthetically. Synthetic peptides are particularly well-suited for vegan skincare, as no animals are involved in their production. The fact that synthetic peptides are artificially created does not make them "unnatural" by any means. They are modeled on the body's own peptides during the manufacturing process and are ultimately so similar that they can effectively stimulate the formation of skin proteins such as collagen and elastin. Another major advantage of synthetic production is that these peptides can be easily modified for even greater effectiveness. Due to their continuous development and adaptability, peptides hold particular promise for the future of slow-aging skincare. In the future, we can certainly look forward to an even wider range of constantly improving and evolving peptide products.

 

What other active ingredients can peptides be combined with?

The answer to this question is as simple as it is ingenious: peptides are compatible with all other active ingredients. This is one of the huge advantages of peptides. While some other active ingredients cannot be used in direct combination because this can lead to skin irritation, peptides are simply compatible with all other active ingredients. Furthermore, they work best in complexes with either other peptides or other active ingredients. Therefore, you will rarely find a skincare product that contains only a single peptide as its main active ingredient. Peptide complexes are usually much more effective than a single peptide could ever be.

With regard to slow aging, the best partners for peptides are vitamin C, retinol, hyaluronic acid, and other peptides as well. Generally, peptides harmonize well with vitamins. Particularly prominent examples include vitamin A (retinoids), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E (tocopherol), and provitamin B5 (panthenol). Many vitamins are also antioxidants. Peptides also work well with antioxidants of all kinds.

 

What should you consider when using peptides in skincare?

Fortunately, there aren't many important points to consider when using peptides in your skincare routine. First of all, you should store your peptide booster in a cool, dark place, but we already know that from other skincare products. Peptides can easily be used both morning and evening. Whether you integrate them into your daytime or nighttime routine, or both, is entirely up to you. However, skincare with peptides should be used consistently, otherwise the effects will diminish after a while.

 

The polypeptide booster from colibri skincare

Our brand-new Polypeptide Booster contains 13 different peptides. It stimulates collagen synthesis in the skin, thus smoothing existing wrinkles, and is also suitable for preventing the formation of new wrinkles. It also has a subtle brightening effect. The booster can be used with all other products in our range. It is particularly effective in combination with other plumping, slow-aging ingredients such as retinol, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid. Unlike our Retinol Booster, the Polypeptide Booster can also be used during pregnancy and breastfeeding. It is also a suitable alternative to retinol for people with sensitive skin. The Polypeptide Booster is very well tolerated and does not cause skin irritation. Because it is so gentle on the skin, the booster does not require any special introduction and can be used immediately. Up to two pumps are sufficient for the face, neck, and décolleté, as the product is very concentrated. It can be applied both morning and evening. The Polypeptide Booster absorbs best on damp skin. A base of the Revival Toner is ideal, but the Hyaluron Booster is also suitable as a layer under the Polypeptide Booster. The peptides used in the booster show results quite quickly, and the first long-term changes in the skin's appearance can be expected after three to four weeks.