Slow-aging ingredient retinol: Vitamin A in skincare

Why Vitamin A is so important for us

Vitamin A has numerous positive effects on the human body. It strengthens the immune system and is also beneficial for our eyesight and mucous membranes. Furthermore, the vitamin promotes accelerated cell regeneration, making it valuable for skincare. Like many vitamins, vitamin A also exhibits antioxidant properties, thus protecting us from harmful free radicals.

Pure vitamin A is found in animal products such as meat, eggs, and milk. In plant-based foods, it is present as a precursor called beta-carotene. Typical red vegetables like carrots, tomatoes, and bell peppers are particularly rich in beta-carotene, but spinach also contains this precursor. Therefore, vitamin A can be obtained through both vegan/vegetarian and omnivorous diets.

What is retinol?

For skincare, vitamin A is used in the form of retinol or its derivatives. Vitamin A describes a whole group of related substances, which can be further divided into retinoids and carotenoids. Retinoids is the collective term for all substances related to retinol, i.e., the aforementioned retinol derivatives. In chemistry, derivatives are substances that share a common basic structure but still differ. Carotenoids are a group of pigments found in many vegetables. Examples of the various forms of vitamin A include: retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, and alpha- and beta-carotene. Chemically speaking, retinol is an alcohol. We will explain the different forms of retinol-related active ingredients in the next two sections.

Pure retinoic acid

Retinoic acid, also known as tretinoin, is particularly potent. However, it is only available by prescription. It is often used, for example, in the medical treatment of acne. Therefore, you will not find tretinoin in over-the-counter skincare products.

Derivatives and precursors

In skincare, precursors of retinoic acid are used. These are then gradually converted into retinoic acid in the skin. This makes the overall effect gentler and more tolerable for the skin.

Retinol and retinal are direct precursors of retinoic acid. After application, the body first converts retinol into retinal and then into retinoic acid.

There are also precursors to pure retinol, mostly in the form of esters (esters are chemical compounds formed from the reaction of an acid with an alcohol). These are created from a combination of retinol and fatty acids. You can identify them in a product's ingredient list by the names retinyl palmitate and retinyl linoleate. These retinol esters (actually retinyl esters) are converted into pure retinol after application to the skin. This makes the esters even more tolerable than pure retinol and therefore particularly suitable for sensitive skin. If you're looking for a gentle introduction to retinol, you can start with products that primarily use these retinyl esters.

A special delivery method for retinol, which we use at colibri skincare, involves liposomal encapsulation. In this process, the active ingredient, in this case retinol, is encapsulated in a carrier substance. This has several advantages. Firstly, the active ingredient can penetrate the skin more effectively, and secondly, it is released over a longer period, during which it unfolds its full effect. You can think of it as similar to extended-release tablets for medication. Finally, encapsulation also allows for a more pleasant product texture, making it easier to apply.

Also worth mentioning is the active ingredient bakuchiol. It works very similarly to retinol, but is considerably gentler. Therefore, it is often added to retinol products to make them less irritating. Bakuchiol is a plant-based active ingredient. Since bakuchiol has no side effects, it allows for very well-tolerated use, similar to retinyl esters. Furthermore, bakuchiol has anti-inflammatory properties and reduces redness, making it particularly suitable for slightly irritated and sensitive skin.

What effect does retinol have on the skin?

Retinol is known as one of the most important active ingredients for slow aging . Both pure retinol and its derivatives, as well as bakuchiol, stimulate collagen production in the skin. Increased collagen production plumps up wrinkles and makes the skin more elastic overall. As mentioned, cell renewal is also boosted by vitamin A, allowing the skin to regenerate more quickly. Old, dead cells are removed, and the skin feels noticeably smoother. Retinol also helps regulate sebum production. Together with its cell-renewing effect, this helps prevent pores from becoming clogged with sebum and dead cells, thus refining the complexion. Its mild brightening effect also makes retinol a great ingredient for slow aging. Pigmentation spots often appear more easily on the skin with age. Retinol can reduce these and even out the complexion.

Who is retinol suitable for?

The use of retinol is sometimes possible even in adolescence, but only in cases of existing acne, if the dermatologist prescribes tretinoin for treatment.

Otherwise, as a general rule of thumb, you can start using retinol as soon as you start to see the first wrinkles. This is roughly calculated around the age of 30, but as is often the case, this can vary considerably from person to person. Some people develop their first wrinkles in their early 20s, while others are blessed with naturally smooth skin and only develop wrinkles later in life.

The use of retinol is not recommended during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

In principle, all skin types can use retinol. However, depending on your skin type, you should make sure to moisturize sufficiently, as retinol can dry out the skin. Those with dry skin should pay particular attention to this. But even oily skin can benefit from a balanced approach, because when the skin feels dehydrated, it compensates with increased sebum production.

When it comes to skin conditions, retinol is perfectly suited for mature and blemished skin. Its smoothing effect benefits mature skin, while its sebum-regulating properties are advantageous for blemished skin. However, more caution is advised for sensitive or dehydrated skin. Retinol can certainly be used on these skin types, but the dosage should likely be lower. This can be achieved either by simply applying less product or by diluting it with another serum. Furthermore, people with sensitive or dehydrated skin should ensure they use other skincare products in their routine that counteract the effects of retinol. For dehydrated skin, this means combining retinol with suitable moisturizers. For sensitive skin, additional products that soothe and reduce irritation should be used.

What should be considered when using the application?

It's common to experience an initial worsening of skin symptoms with retinol. Because the active ingredient triggers strong renewal processes in the skin, it's often poorly tolerated at first. To avoid this, you should introduce retinol products carefully, step by step.

When using retinol, you should be a little patient. Initial effects are visible after 8-12 weeks. However, many users report that a positive sensation, such as smoother skin, sets in quite soon after starting to use it.

Retinol is a light-sensitive active ingredient. Therefore, opaque packaging, like the kind we use at colibri skincare, is essential to ensure the active ingredient remains effective and lasts a long time. Furthermore, its light sensitivity makes retinol best suited for evening use, as it is then protected from sunlight. The skin also becomes more sensitive to sunlight after application, so sun protection is crucial the following morning. For this, you can use, for example, our Daily SPF 50+ Moisturizer .

There are a few things to keep in mind when using retinol with other active ingredients. While retinol complements other vitamins very well, it shouldn't be used in the same routine as vitamins C and B3. However, applying vitamin C and/or niacinamide in the morning and then retinol in the evening is perfectly safe and shows great results for your complexion. You should also be careful with hydroxy acids, such as those found in chemical peels. Retinol shouldn't be applied directly after such a peel. However, there's nothing wrong with using a peel and applying a retinol product a few hours later, provided your skin tolerates it well.

Different dosages

Products containing retinol are available in a wide range of concentrations. The maximum permitted concentration in the EU is 1%. This may seem insignificant, but retinol is an extremely effective active ingredient. Even in low concentrations, it can have a powerful effect. Furthermore, the maximum concentration serves as a precaution to prevent excessive vitamin A intake.

If you're new to retinol, low concentrations of up to 0.05% are a good choice. Even if you have very sensitive or particularly dry skin, you should stick to low concentrations to support your skin while also being gentle. Our lowest-concentration retinol product is the Night Cream . You can start by diluting it and mixing it with the Hyaluron Booster , the Calming Moisturizer , one of the Rich Moisturizers , or one of our oils .

A medium concentration of 0.05% to 0.6% is suitable if you want to minimize noticeable wrinkles and increase your skin's elasticity. A medium concentration of retinol is also helpful for uneven skin tone. A concentration of up to 0.6% is therefore considered an advanced level. For this purpose, we offer our popular Vitamin A Serum with exactly 0.6%. It contains not only pure retinol but also derivatives, making it easier to tolerate, especially if you are already accustomed to retinol.

For very pronounced signs of skin aging, the highest concentration of up to 1% can be used. This concentration is also advisable for significant skin changes and severe pigmentation spots. Prior experience with retinol is essential; maximum concentrations are definitely not suitable for beginners. With our 1% Retinol Booster, we've ensured it's as gentle as possible. It contains soothing colloidal oat extract, and the liposomal encapsulation of the retinol further improves its tolerability.

How do I integrate retinol into my routine?

Especially at higher concentrations, retinol can cause skin irritation. Typical reactions include redness, flaking, itching, and burning. Therefore, the active ingredient should always be introduced cautiously in low doses or diluted.

It's best not to start with high concentrations right away, but rather begin gently and then see if a higher concentration is necessary and feels beneficial for your skin. If a low-dose product already works wonders for you, then it's best to stick with that for now. In skincare, more isn't always better.

To get used to it, it's sufficient to initially apply your chosen product just once a week. Diluting it can also be helpful to make the start easier. Over time, you can then increase the frequency of application or reduce the dilution. A good approach is to change your routine slightly each week. Depending on your skin's reaction, you can then adjust it again the following week. Eventually, you'll establish a regular application. What exactly constitutes "regular" naturally depends on your skincare goals and the sensitivity of your skin. Theoretically, daily application is possible, but experience shows that applying it every two or three days also leads to clearly visible results.

Retinol in combination with other active ingredients

While retinol cannot be combined with all active ingredients in the same application, it shows great synergy with many active ingredients that can easily be incorporated into your morning routine. Other vitamins and hyaluronic acid are particularly good complements to retinol.

With hyaluronic acid for slow aging

Both retinol and hyaluronic acid have a fantastic slow-aging effect on their own, as they tighten the skin and plump up wrinkles. Together, retinol and hyaluronic acid form the perfect slow-aging duo. The combination of different active ingredients further enhances the results.

Our Hyaluron Booster is particularly well-suited for combining with retinol products. Firstly, because it allows you to easily dilute higher concentrations of retinol serums. Secondly, hyaluronic acid provides exactly the moisture that the skin can lose through the use of retinol.

Vitamin C: The combination against hyperpigmentation

Just like vitamin A, vitamin C has an incredible number of benefits for the skin. Most outstanding is its ability to restore radiance to dull skin and even out hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C shares these properties with retinol, which is why the two vitamins complement each other so well.

Apart from that, they both have an antioxidant effect and promote the formation of collagen.

With niacinamide for a strong skin barrier

Niacinamide (or vitamin B3) is a true all-rounder among active ingredients. In combination with vitamin A, it effectively strengthens the skin barrier, ensures an even skin tone, and also regulates sebum production. A little bit of everything, then—what more could you want?

The ultimate combination of antioxidants with vitamin E

Besides vitamins A and C, vitamin E (tocopherol) is also a powerful antioxidant. Compared to other antioxidants, it has a significant advantage: it can enhance the effects of other antioxidants. Different antioxidants synergize very well with each other, so combining several in your skincare routine is definitely beneficial. Another advantage of vitamin E is that, unlike vitamin C, it can be combined directly with retinol in the same routine.

In conclusion, we can all agree that retinol is perfectly suited for a wide range of skincare goals. If you're still unsure about dosage, getting used to it, or choosing your perfect retinol product, feel free to ask for advice .