Pimple marks - targeted skin care & patience

Pimple marks can appear as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) or post-inflammatory erythema (PIE). This distinction is important because the different causes require different care approaches. PIH is caused by an overproduction of melanin and appears as dark or brown spots, while PIE manifests as reddish or purple discolorations caused by damaged blood vessels. For PIH, the goal is to regulate melanin production and lighten existing pigmentation. For PIE, the focus is on soothing the skin and supporting vascular healing. With the right skincare routine, including the use of suitable active ingredients and consistent sun protection, pigmentation can be reduced, and the skin can return to its natural state more quickly.

Pimple marks or acne scars?

It’s important to distinguish between pimple marks and acne scars, as they are treated differently. Pimple marks are flat, discolored spots that do not cause structural changes to the skin. They are purely aesthetic and do not affect the skin’s surface. Acne scars, on the other hand, are deeper skin damages that can occur as a result of severe acne. They are usually characterized by changes in skin texture, such as depressions or raised areas, which are more difficult to treat. While pimple marks can fade over time, acne scars often require more intensive treatments like microneedling, laser therapy, or chemical peels.

Fading pimple marks

Pimple marks, in the form of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and post-inflammatory erythema (PIE), can affect the skin's appearance. The good news: With the right skincare, both types of pimple marks can be effectively reduced. The key lies in using the right active ingredients that specifically target the causes of the discoloration. A gentle facial cleanser is the first step. For PIE pimple marks, ingredients like panthenol, allantoin, squalane, peptides, centella asiatica, and azelaic acid are helpful. The focus is on soothing the skin and supporting the healing of blood vessels. PIH pimple marks, on the other hand, require brightening ingredients like niacinamide, kojic acid dipalmitate, vitamin C, and azelaic acid. Additionally, chemical peels promote skin renewal and help shed pigment deposits. Retinol is also an effective ingredient that accelerates cell turnover, causing PIH pimple marks to fade faster. The final step in your routine is especially important. UV rays can darken pimple marks and delay healing. Daily sunscreen with at least SPF 30 is essential to prevent further discoloration and help existing spots fade faster. If you want to treat both types of pimple marks simultaneously, you can combine soothing, regenerative, and brightening ingredients in your routine.

Don’ts in treating pimple marks

It’s advisable to use a targeted and balanced routine with only a few, but effective products. Combining too many active ingredients at once, like retinoids, vitamin C, acids, and brightening products, can overwhelm the skin and cause irritation. This can not only darken pimple marks but also damage the skin barrier, which delays healing. Additionally, mechanical exfoliations with coarse grains or frequent use of chemical peels can irritate the skin and worsen inflammation. This leads to more skin problems and can make pimple marks even darker. A common "don’t" is forgetting sunscreen. UV rays enhance both PIE (post-inflammatory erythema) and PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation). PIE spots may last longer, and PIH can become darker due to increased melanin production.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why aren't my pimple marks fading despite using the right active ingredients?

If your pimple marks don’t fade despite using suitable active ingredients, there could be several reasons for this. Post-acne marks take time to fade, so active ingredients need to be applied consistently. Daily sun protection with at least SPF 30 is also essential, as UV radiation stimulates melanin production and delays healing. In some cases, pigment spots are rooted deeper in the skin, making superficial treatments less effective. In such instances, more intensive treatments like chemical peels, microdermabrasion, or laser therapy may be necessary. If your pigmentation is caused not by melanin overproduction but by damaged blood vessels, your skincare routine should focus on soothing the skin and supporting vascular healing rather than using brightening products.

How long does it take for pimple marks to fade?

The time it takes for pimple marks to fade depends on several factors, such as the type of discoloration, skin type, and the chosen treatment. Marks in the form of PIE (post-inflammatory erythema) can persist for several months to years because blood vessels regenerate slowly. With consistent use of anti-inflammatory and regenerative active ingredients, initial results may become visible after 4–8 weeks. For marks in the form of PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), the depth of pigmentation and sun exposure play a significant role. With targeted care, first improvements can typically be seen after 4–12 weeks. Patience and careful skincare are crucial to achieving a more even complexion in the long run.